Vancouver Restaurants - Ones to Watch

By Andrew Dalik (October 12, 2007)

Metro

Modern, urbane, and sophisticated, Vancouver's growing, much lauded culinary scene continues to heat up and entrench itself as a foodie destination.  New openings are hotly anticipated, and Metro is one of our fair city’s latest additions.

With a view of the North Shore, the major design element of slate walls and wood floor is deliberately meant to evoke Vancouver’s omnipresent natural beauty.  This theme is expanded and exemplified by the menu – itself a physical testament to the environment and sustainability as it is printed on recycled materials and is Green Seal approved.

The Metro Bloody Mary is a perfect example of the production of a classic cocktail with local elements – Absolut Vodka is infused with local cayenne peppers, sundried tomato juice is house-made, and it is served with shucked Effingham oysters from Barclay Sound. 

Through several signature dishes are not to be missed, much of Metro’s enjoyment comes through the ability to try a myriad of dishes.  This is due to the presence of many share plates and an extensive Land & Sea menu where everything is "cut to order."  Nicola Valley Deer with lingot bean salad and cherry preserve, Fraser Valley Duck Breast with orange pomme mash, Pemberton Meadows Blade Steak  with noodle flan are just a few of the locally sourced land dishes to enjoy.  Sablefish with a smoked oyster mushroom risotto, Wild Salmon, and Queen Charlotte Island Halibut are but a few of the many sea dishes to be ordered by the ounce.  An extensive wine list ensures the perfect pairing with whatever you order.  Metro is definitely one to watch.

Gastropod

With a great menu, a great space, and a great name, Gastropod is shelling out a laudable new take on dining in Kitsilano.  By day, the honey coloured wood, bright windows, and freshly pressed linens create a breezy atmosphere; but when night descends, an elegant lighting scheme softens the unadorned cream and sea-foam walls with a warm depth.  Classic jazz is audible if you listen, but the real hum is chatter and silverware.

Between the memorable name and the eye-catching frontage, Gastropod has quickly become a common reference point on 4th, and the quality of Angus An’s food has kept the hinges on the front door swinging without a scratch of advertising. 

The simple but formidable menu includes a daily fois gras creation, a beautifully understated sea urchin risotto, and Cortes Island oysters with a fresh Pacific chill that will draw out every Gulf Island beach memory you have.  For savoury richness, try the robust natural flavours of a lamb shoulder cooked sous-vide for thirty-six hours or the silky texture of duck breast confit.

The wine list provides ample room for inspired pairings.  Of note, the 2004 Marc Kreydenweiss Barbabelle from France has an aromatic leathery nose with big black cherry notes and a subtle dry vanilla finish, while the 2004 Seifreid Estates Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand has apple, pear, and passion fruit characteristics, a light acidity, and full, soft feel in the mouth.

By changing the menu every six weeks and providing an inventive experience without too much fuss, Gastropod has hit the sweet spot for comfortable fine dining.  

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